Slicing software converts 3D models into printer instructions. Most of it is overwhelming; this guide covers the 5% of settings that actually matter.
What is Slicing?
Your 3D model is a solid shape. Your printer doesn’t print solids; it prints layers of thin lines. The slicer takes the model and:
- Divides it into horizontal layers (usually 0.2mm thick)
- Plans extrusion paths for each layer
- Calculates movement speeds and temperatures
- Generates G-code (printer instructions)
The .gcode file is what your printer actually reads.
Getting Started with Cura
Cura is free, open-source, and works with almost every FDM printer.
Download: Search “Ultimaker Cura” (official version)
First launch:
- Select your printer from the list (find your model)
- If not listed, choose “Custom Printer” and match the specifications
- Load a .stl model file (download from Thingiverse, Printables, or use your own)
Basics:
- Rotate model: Middle mouse button + drag
- Pan view: Shift + middle mouse
- Zoom: Mouse wheel
- Place model on bed: Spacebar, then click where you want it
The Essential Settings
Most beginner prints succeed with just these 6 settings:
1. Material
Select your filament type. This sets default temperatures and speeds.
PLA: 200-210°C nozzle, 60°C bed PETG: 235-245°C nozzle, 75°C bed
If your material isn’t listed, you’ll need to research the right temperatures. Don’t guess.
2. Nozzle Temperature
Left panel → Material → Nozzle Temperature
Adjust based on your material and experimentation. Start with the default, then tweak if prints fail.
3. Layer Height
Left panel → Quality → Layer Height
0.2mm (standard): Good balance of speed and quality. Recommended for learning.
0.12mm (fine): Better detail, slower printing. Use for models with fine features.
0.3mm (fast): Rougher surface, faster. Use for simple, large prints.
For your first prints, stay at 0.2mm.
4. Infill
Left panel → Strength → Infill Density
10%: Lightweight, fast, uses less filament (for non-functional prints)
20%: Standard, good strength-to-weight ratio
100%: Solid, heavy, uses lots of filament (rarely needed)
For most prints, 20% is perfect. Increase only if the part breaks or fails during printing.
5. Build Plate Temperature
Left panel → Material → Bed Temperature
PLA: 60°C typical. If first layer doesn’t stick, increase to 70°C.
6. Print Speed
Left panel → Speed → Print Speed
50mm/s: Safe, reliable, best for learning
80-100mm/s: Normal speed, most common
120mm/s+: Risky with PLA, better for PETG/ABS
Start at 50mm/s. Once prints succeed, increase for faster results.
Supports
Sometimes models have overhangs that need plastic supports underneath.
Enable: Supports menu → Enable Supports → Tree (recommended)
How to decide:
- Model has overhangs > 45°: Enable supports
- Model is mostly vertical with no large overhangs: Disable supports
Most beginners enable supports by default, wasting material. Look at the model first. If it’s a simple shape, you probably don’t need them.
Raft vs. Brim
These are platforms under your model to improve bed adhesion.
Raft: Full plastic platform underneath (wastes plastic, helps large models stick)
Brim: Thin border around the model (minimal waste, helps edges stick)
Neither: Works for most models with proper bed leveling
Recommendation: Start with neither. Enable only if your model doesn’t stick.
Seeing Your Slicing
Preview: Bottom of Cura, click “Preview” to see the actual print paths
This shows you:
- Exactly how the printer will print (layer by layer)
- Where supports go
- Estimated print time and material weight
Read the preview. If something looks wrong (missing pieces, floating parts), fix it before printing.
Common Beginner Mistakes
Not rotating the model: The orientation in the slicer affects print time, supports, and success. Try rotating 90° to see if it improves.
Too high temperature: Stringing, oozing, warping. Start low, increase only if needed.
Enabling supports automatically: Most models don’t need them. Review the preview first.
Ignoring the preview: Slice, but don’t print immediately. Preview for 30 seconds. Saves failed prints.
Changing too many settings at once: If a print fails, change one variable (temperature, speed, layer height). You can’t tell what actually fixed it if you change three things.
What You Don’t Need to Worry About
- Retraction: Slicer handles this automatically
- Wall thickness: Standard settings work
- Top/bottom layers: Default of 4 layers is fine
- Seam position: Ignore this advanced setting
- Pressure advance: Ignore, only for fine-tuning
These advanced settings matter after 50+ prints. For now, trust the defaults.
Saving Your Settings
Once you find settings that work:
- File → Save Profile
- Name it (e.g., “PLA_Ender3_reliable”)
- Next time, load this profile instead of adjusting each setting
This saves massive time on future prints.
Slicing software seems complex because it has 200+ settings. Ignore 190 of them. Focus on these six, print a few times, and you’ll understand your printer’s capability far better than reading guides ever could.